Casinos are feeling the pressure, particularly in Macau, the world’s largest gambling hub, which includes properties from Las Vegas Sands and MGM Resorts International. Chinese daily visitors from the mainland are still streaming in, spurred by the opening of a bridge linking to mainland China and Hong Kong. Butthe high rollers who have traditionally propped up casino receiptsare staying away from the baccarat tables in the former Portuguese colony.
The Chinese tourists made a perfect target for luxury brands. Thanks to their homeland’s rapid economic growth, they are newly wealthy, full of aspiration and hungry to display their elevated status. Timing also made them invaluable, with their conspicuous consumption taking off just after the financial crisis. As a result, China became the world’s biggest spender in international tourism in 2012, according to data from the World Tourism Organisation, a United Nations agency.
In Tokyo, they have been a ubiquitous sight, with shoppers filling up empty suitcases with high-end cosmetics in duty-free airport shops, and tour groups flooding into jewellery stores. Marketing around the Chinese New Year has become the norm, with even the US catching on to the opportunity. SeaWorld San Diego and the Chicago Symphony took part this year. In Las Vegas, the Bellagio put a giant pig in its lobby in honour of the Year of the Pig, and Caesars sent a dragon parade through its Forum Shops mall.
But China’s leaders would like more of those purchases made at home, and they’re taking actions to support that now that the country’s economic growth has slowed. The government reduced taxes on imported goods to encourage its citizens, the world’s highest-spending duty-free shoppers, to buy domestically. It’s also cracking down ondaigou – a gray market of surrogate shopperswho buy products like designer handbags overseas for customers in mainland China. It’s a cohort that accounted for an estimated $US6 billion in sales in 2016, according to Bain.
Those efforts might be starting to work, given that companies like Capri say its business in China is still growing but struggling in Japan and South Korea because of fewer Chinese tourists. The Chinese have also long been savvy at arbitraging between currency fluctuations and taxes to determine which location is the most attractive to buy the latest handbags, fashion and perfume – a task often handled by daigou.
Shoppers such as Jessica Yang, a 35-year-old lawyer in Beijing, are reconsidering options.
“I buy most of my luxury goods when I travel overseas or at duty-free stores at airport,” Yang says. “If the price is not significantly higher in China, I would also consider buying at a domestic counter.”
Tiffany has been particularly hampered by the slowdown. Last quarter, executives singled out lower spending by tourists, particularly from China, to its flagship store in New York, as a reason for missing analysts’ estimates. Now it’s shifting advertising dollars to other nationalities as a hedge.
Many North American luxury labels consider themselves under-exposed to the Chinese market, especially compared with European peers who are faring better. Most are now making inroads in mainland China, mitigating the effects from shifts in tourism. The big handbag labels Coach, Kate Spade and Kors all see China’s domestic market as key to their future and are opening stores there.
L’Oreal CEO Jean-Paul Agon, anticipating questions from analysts on an earnings call last month, was adamant: “We saw no slowdown in China.” Overall the rate of growth in global luxury is expected to remain unabated, even amid macro-economic uncertainties likethe ongoing trade dispute with the US, according to Bloomberg Intelligence.
That’s why any sign of volatility in the mighty growth engine is cause for concern. In Tokyo, a sudden drop in sales at high-end department stores in January triggered alarm bells, coming after Chinese visitors to Japan more than doubled since 2014. Sales rebounded in February at Takashimaya and J Front Retailing, which oversees one of the newest luxury shopping complexes in the heart of Ginza. Still, retailers like Isetan Mitsukoshi and Sogo & Seibu say sales were relatively flat from a year earlier during the week of the Chinese New Year holiday.
“This shows you can’t depend upon Chinese tourism as the drivers of your business,” says Danziger, the luxury analyst. “It’s a dangerous place to be.”